Overdue.

The last time I wrote was an entirely different mindset; I was still very much a tourist who fumbled through basic French phrases and wandered with my oversized map in the metro. Now, although I am by no means French or fluent, I feel like I LIVE here. I can give people directions, have a conversation with a friend’s host family about my heritage and religion, and translate an old tour guide’s explanation of the catacombs to a family friend. It’s not much, but it is definitely progress- I feel myself so much more able to live and be in this city, and enjoy it with confidence, instead of avoiding human contact as much as possible. It’s nice; I know I still sound awkward and speak like a 4 year old (I am constantly reminded of David Sedaris’ short stories in “Me Talk Pretty One Day” where he describes his life in France), but I can get by.

I was accidentally given a big compliment on the metro last week- an American man and woman were sitting on the metro next to me. They were asking each other which stop they should get off on, and they couldn’t seem to figure it out. Finally, the woman told her husband to “just ask someone- but not her (me), she looks French and French woman are mean.” I tried my best not to smile or laugh, and attempted to maintain my tres frenchy metro glare. But how excited I was to be mistaken for a French person! Re-reading this, I’m repulsed by how snotty that sounds, but that isn’t my intention; I’m just excited to feel more like a citizen and less like a tourist.

Through a few different outlets, I’ve been exposed to a lot of film recently. Although I hardly ever go to the movies at home, I really enjoy going here. And the French really enjoy the cinema- I walked by a line of about 100 people this evening waiting outside. People go together of course, but a lot of people go alone. The state of France has a law that requires at least half of all films at a theatre to be of French origin (and least I think that is what my host father was trying to explain). So while there are a lot of American movies, there’s a lot of French and international cinema. The title translations for films are sometimes hilarious; “He’s Just Not that Into You” became “What Men Think” (depressing?) and “Revolutionary Road” became “The Wedded Rebels.” Unlike in the USA, you can’t get there too early because they screenings are so close together, and it’s rare to find a JUMBO popcorn/drink combo anywhere. Everyone here loves Woody Allen and Clint Eastwood, and there is a common belief that neither actor is admired enough in America.

I’m also taking a History of French Cinema class at IES. The professor is an adorable grandpa-esque director who enjoys pausing each film around 60 times to explain subtle points to the class. The French equivalent of “Gone with the Wind” (said by many to be the best French film ever made, a perennial classic with love and betrayal and such) is “Les Enfants Du Paradis.” I really liked it, besides thinking the entire time that the main male love interest resembled a 14 year old. We’ve watched a lot of things I can hardly understand- the sound quality, the slang and the accents make it borderline impossible- but we are moving into the 1950s so hopefully that’ll be clearer.

Our school took us to see “Les Plages d’Agnés” (the Beaches of Agnes), a self-documentary by Agnes Varda. She’s a famous French director and photographer, known for her bright fuschia hair and zany personality as much as for her works. Her office and home is on the same street as my school, and she has a big presence in the local community. Contrary to most other students on my program, I adored the movie and I kind of want to be her. She is 80 years old and a widow, but more alive and young and energetic than many people my age. She’s done enough to live nine different lives- hung out with Jim Morrison in LA for a few months, won the highest award at the Cannes Film Festival, traveled the world as a journalist and filmmaker… I was so inspired by how creative she is and how fun and full she has made her life.

I trekked to the BNF (the national library) for the first time to go to the European independent film festival this past weekend. We saw some crazy Fight Club-esque Swedish movie, a German one about an insane asylum making a bomb and an English one about a serial killer girlfriend. Sounds a lot more violent than it was, and the BNF is a remarkable building. It kind of looks like an upside down table with the legs sticking up.

Although there have been many memorable and scrumptious meals these past few weeks, here are the highlights:
The International Food Festival: also known as the most fantastic way to spend a Sunday. I went with a girl on my program and we posed as international farming students to get in for free (for the record, I have 15 hectares of cranberries). We started with the farm animals- a lot of children from Paris have never seen one, so lots of screaming and pointing and some tears accompanied said exhibit. About two feet away from the pig pens, some nice gentleman were passing out pork sausage samples which I gladly, although a little concernedly, ate (sorry Hallie and Gray). We spent about four hours in a massive convention center packed to the brim with food from every region and area of France- aperitif liquors, sweet cheese bread, foie gras, olive tapenade, macarons; no food was left unsampled. I bought some peach abricot liquor and some bread that looks like a tortoise shell but tastes like heaven. SO GOOD.

Peach Beer: A happy hour tradition I happily plan to bring with me back to the States. It’s beer- preferably something fruity and un-guinness like (say, Blue Moon) with a shot of peach liquor. It’s like kir (white wine and cassis) but beer style. So light and delicious.

Demi-Baguette: Since last we spoke, I have taken full advantage of the discovery that half baguettes cost about 40 cents. Most bakeries bake bread twice or three times a day, so if you go often you can find out when it will be hot. Many a delicious meal was made of an apple, some camembert (1.30 euro for the generic brand) and a hot demi baguette. Simple but so great.

Breakfast: The cuisine I miss most is definitely breakfast food (Clarke’s omelettes or Hector’s chocolate chip pancakes). The French don’t really do that- they like bread and butter and coffee, which is fine most of the time. However, I have recently discovered “Breakfast in America,” a diner started by an ex-pat who felt exactly as I do. And Voila! I have since enjoyed pb&j toast, sunny side up eggs, and lots of diner coffee from those weird-shaped pots. They also serve hamburgers, which I plan to try next time I’m craving In-N-Out.

This weekend marks one of my last fully in Paris. I’m starting to travel starting next weekend, and I’m very excited but also already queasy thinking about having to ever leave here. I’m going to Berlin next weekend and Madrid the weekend after, both to meet up with good friends of mine from NU. It’ll be good to see familiar and friendly faces, and I’ve only heard good things about both cities. What I’m most looking forward to is Spring Break- I’m going to Cairo! My cousin Kirsten is living there, and I’m going to be there for Easter and Eastern Easter, which are both a big deal there. Very excited to see something so completely different, and to be able to do it with someone I love who knows the city well. She’s already warned me that people will try to pet my hair, so that could get a bit annoying. After that, I’m going to Nice/Monaco and London. Woohoo!

I decided last week that I am going to attempt to live here this summer. Of course, there’s a lot of variables out of my control, like finding an under-the-table semi-well paying job and a place to live. But I’m going to make an effort to do it- I don’t know if I’ll have the opportunity to again, and I am really enjoying my time here. I also really want to improve my French enough so that I can get close to fluencyish and retain a lot when back in the USA.

Who knows…I also am waiting to hear back from a few grants and internships in New York, and that could change my mind. Hopefully something good works out…I also cannot wait until senior year and Chicago and living with my best friends in a great house. And 21 is coming soon!

There is so much more to write and I promise to be better at keeping up to date. I’m sick today- running nose and stuffy head- and had to brave the French pharmacy and try to explain my symptoms. I’m going to Berlin tomorrow so hopefully I kick this quick!